For my "holiday" away from the holiday that has become my life, I was delighted to be joined by my most special partner in crime- Healthy Cookie. And, not only was she with me for our ten day sojourn to Spain/Morocco, but she is posting along with me for these three recapping posts. The fun of the holiday continues!Why Morocco? Why did I study Dutch? Questions of the world that may never be answered, but results that have proven delicious for this Waffle. HC and I flew down to Malaga, Spain to enjoy the Iberian weather and catch an organized tour of Morocco. After a lovely bus and incredibly unorganized ferry ride down to Africa (a first for the traveling treats), we arrived at our first Imperial City- Fes!
If it's the hat, it's a fez. If it's the city, it's a Fes. The former is Turkish, the latter is the former
capital and fourth largest city in the Kingdom of Morocco. Fes contains many cultural gems, including the cultural stereotypes of a narrow, windy market with pushy merchants, "buy a rug! price just for you!" specials, and killed-that-morning meat stalls. Adding to the smells of Fes, only donkeys are allowed through these crooked alleys. Fes is actually the "handicraft" capital of Morocco, and it shows in their markets. We saw metal smiths working on trays and teapots, women weaving linens, working tanneries (which we bypassed, thankyouverymuch), and men working on large textile looms. The award for most dramatic sales presentation by a lead actor in a souk (traditional market), goes to Mr. I Can Only Sleep On A Rug They're So Comfortable!! Had the building of the rug seller not been a beautiful 14th century home previously owned by the Ben Hauyn's, a Jewish family, we would have looked for the nearest carpet ride out.
Luckily, there were other, less pushy Jewish things to see in Morocco. The Jewish community of Morocco dates back to the time of the Romans, and Fes is home to some of the oldest Jewish history and scholars including Moshe ben Maimon (aka Maimonides or Rambam). Not easy to find, there is an old Synagogue in Fes that really reminded us of a Bubbe's attic. It was filled with STUFF. Jewish stuff, everywhere. We almost expected to smell latkes cooking or have someone offer us herring. Healthy Cookie resisted the urge to organize the place, and Kosher Waffle resisted the urge to complain that she was at Hebrew School. Instead, we both took pictures and fell in love with the old man who let us in. We did find the place overwhelming and were filled with pride.Our serendipitous find of Fes was the Australian water lady. Naturally. Across from our less-than-helpful hotel was a small market where we went to buy reasonably priced water, and the store owner was a lovely woman who shared with us her favorite local restaurant. What a delicious meal! We were treated to a nice but affordable (thank you Dirham exchange rate) couscous and Moroccan soup meal. The staff was friendly, the maitre d' spoke fluent English, and the atmosphere was inviting. If you are ever in Fes, we recommend Restaurant Zagora. It gets the (very picky) HC/KW seal of approval.
The next Imperial City we experienced was Marrakech, which has the largest souk in Morocco and the busiest square in Africa. Said square is occupied with monkeys, snakes/charmers, ladies trying to henna any hand not in a pocket, and teeth. Both full sets and individual, we didn't get close enough to determine the origins or snap a picture. Otherwise, the souk looked the same as that of Fes, minus the donkeys (sad).The Saadian Tombs are an impressive thing to see- it's a mix of history, architecture, and culture. Built in the 16th cen
tury by the ruling Saadi dynasty and rediscovered under mounds of dirt in 1917, the tombs are elaborate and ornate. Buried there are not only members of the royal family, but distinguished soldiers and even beloved servants. The tombs of Christians and Jews are distinguished by their perpendicular orientation because they do not face Mecca, unlike the Muslim tombs.
We were also lucky enough to visit the only royal palace in Morocco open to the public, the Bahia Palace. Built in the 19th century, the sprawling compound housed the grand vizier, his four wives, twenty-four concubines, many children, servants, entertainers, and visiting guests. Today, it houses random modern art exhibits and Hollywood movie crews.
Just like Fes, Marrakech has a long Jewish history. The synagogue of the city is still in use, and significantly easier to find than in Fes. We, again, fell
in love with the old Jewish man who let us in, and felt at home in the sanctuary, with its prayer books and Kleenex boxes. Also not difficult to find is the Jewish cemetery, which dates from 1537.As we wrap up this post, we would like to tell you about another mini-Odyssey slash food find. After wandering hours in the rain, with a local girl attempting to help us and no street signs or directions, we managed to find Earth Cafe, an absolutely delicious vegetarian restaurant. The owner, Barakat Naim,
made us feel so at home- he invited us in, made us tea, fed us delicious food, and sat and talked to us, giving us directions and inviting us back for more tea. He even invited us to come visit Marrakech again, staying above the restaurant and visiting their organic farm. If you'd like to visit the cafe or even the farm, check them out here. This also receives the (very picky) KW/HC seal of approval.So that my friends is Fes, Marrakech, donkeys, and magic carpets.
Enjoy the first intermission!
Kosher Waffle and Healthy Cookie
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