We did not venture to Africa on our own, but went on an organized tour through MundiMaroc. Unfortunately this company failed in providing a great tour. However, going with an organized tour allowed us to travel with some fabulous tour mates- a young and charming woman from Costa Rica, an enthusiastic Australian father-son duo, and a dear old Spanish couple who didn't speak any English and spoke to us only in their native tongue. We had a wonderful time with these co-travelers and now have people to visit in
even more exotic countries!
Our recap of Morocco would not be complete without overall impressions, lessons learned, and restaurants recommended. As we've performed the latter, here's our take on the first two:
Morocco is a unique and incredibly mixture of things; it is both Western and Islamic, agricultural and industrial, historic and modern. Driving through the mountains, we 
saw just as many donkeys as we did tractors, just as many women in burkas as men in suits, and horse-drawn carts followed by semis. When most people think of Morocco, they think of an expansive, sandy desert, but what we saw were lush green hills, endless orchards of oranges, watermelons, clementines, olives, and strawberries, and countless farming towns. Even just stepping into a bakery in Morocco, you can see the cross of influence- French pastries next to Berber (nomadic Arabs) pitas.
We now have a greater appreciation for the QWERTY keyboard,
travel wipes and Purell, and street signs. We also know how to say "we do not eat animals " in Spanish and Arabic, although it doesn't always mean much to the people serving us food. HC has mastered the art of negotiating cab fare (don't mess with the Cookie on that one), and KW can find the cheapest bottled water in any Moroccan city. Together, we have entertained ourselves for 10 days. We hope we've entertained you, too!
xoxo
kw & hc
ps. if you'd like to see the rest of our Moroccan photo album, let me know!
The city of Casablanca is like Rick's American Cafe in Ann Arbor: overrated, overpriced, and reeking of cigarette smoke. However, as the largest city in both Morocco and the Maghreb, it was a necessary stop on our tour. Reminding us a bit of Los Angeles, the urban and almost Westernized metropolitan of Casablanca has surprisingly little to offer beyond the name, a small souk, a lot of banks, and a huge (and modern) mosque.
Despite the few cultural must-sees, Kosher Waffle finally crossed a very important item off her List: see Rick's Cafe. As a passionate lover of old movies and Humphrey Bogart, KW found this very exciting. We didn't go in, but taking a picture of the famed establishment was enough for the Waffle!
Also significant, but for different reasons, the Hassan II Mosque is the largest in Morocco, third largest in the world (after Mecca and Medina), and has the largest Minaret in the world. It is such a grand structure, it can hold 105,000 worshippers and two Jews in the back taking pictures. Built in the early 1990's, the Mosque is a mix of old and new- the architectural and decorative influences are Moorish and Moroccan, while the building has heated floors and a sliding roof.
Thanks to Barakat Naim at Earth Cafe, we knew exactly where to enjoy a meal worthy of the (very picky) KW/HC seal of approval. We dined at Sqala, amidst the relaxing fountains and mint garden. Morocco is known for its mint tea, and we enjoyed a eucalyptus-mint tea, poured from high up as per Moroccan flavor-enhancing tradition, with our locally-inspired vegetarian meal.
The final Imperial City on our tour was Rabat, the country's capital. Highlights included the Royal Palace and Parliment, Mausoleum of Mohammad V and Hassan Tower, and Kasbah of the Udayas. Yes, we rocked the Kasbah at 10am on a weekday. Kosher Waffle was not able to enjoy the day's itinerary as she was under the influence of a 12-hour Moroccan stomach bug (special price just for you!).
Mohammed V is admired by many Jews for his role in defending them against the French Vichy Government, proclaiming "there are no Jews, only Moroccans" when asked to turn over his country's Jews during World War II. This mausoleum visit marked the Jewish portion of the Modern Cities for Kosher Waffle and Healthy Cookie as this King is a modern Moroccan hero to the Jewish people, and tour constraints did not allow time for us to see the local synagogues and cemeteries.
Across the Bou Regreg river is Sale, Rabat's sister city and home to the Kasbah of the Udayas. An uncharacteristically beautiful and serene find, the Kasbah reminded us of the Greek Islands - white and blue walls, beautiful gardens, and open-air patios facing the ocean. It was a welcomed pause from the overstimulating bustle of Moroccan life.
Following Rabat, we returned to the port city of Tangier and ferried back to Spain, ending our week of markets, minarets, and magic carpets. Overall impressions and life lessons in the next post. Until then, here's looking at you, kid.
xoxo
hc & kw
For my "holiday" away from the holiday that has become my life, I was delighted to be joined by my most special partner in crime- Healthy Cookie. And, not only was she with me for our ten day sojourn to Spain/Morocco, but she is posting along with me for these three recapping posts. The fun of the holiday continues!
Why Morocco? Why did I study Dutch? Questions of the world that may never be answered, but results that have proven delicious for this Waffle. HC and I flew down to Malaga, Spain to enjoy the Iberian weather and catch an organized tour of Morocco. After a lovely bus and incredibly unorganized ferry ride down to Africa (a first for the traveling treats), we arrived at our first Imperial City- Fes!
If it's the hat, it's a fez. If it's the city, it's a Fes. The former is Turkish, the latter is the former 
capital and fourth largest city in the Kingdom of Morocco. Fes contains many cultural gems, including the cultural stereotypes of a narrow, windy market with pushy merchants, "buy a rug! price just for you!" specials, and killed-that-morning meat stalls. Adding to the smells of Fes, only donkeys are allowed through these crooked alleys. Fes is actually the "handicraft" capital of Morocco, and it shows in their markets. We saw metal smiths working on trays and teapots, women weaving linens, working tanneries (which we bypassed, thankyouverymuch), and men working on large textile looms. The award for most dramatic sales presentation by a lead actor in a souk (traditional market), goes to Mr. I Can Only Sleep On A Rug They're So Comfortable!! Had the building of the rug seller not been a beautiful 14th century home previously owned by the Ben Hauyn's, a Jewish family, we would have looked for the nearest carpet ride out.
Luckily, there were other, less pushy Jewish things to see in Morocco. The Jewish community of Morocco dates back to the time of the Romans, and Fes is home to some of the oldest Jewish history and scholars including Moshe ben Maimon (aka Maimonides or Rambam). Not easy to find, there is an old Synagogue in Fes that really reminded us of a Bubbe's attic. It was filled with STUFF. Jewish stuff, everywhere. We almost expected to smell latkes cooking or have someone offer us herring. Healthy Cookie resisted the urge to organize the place, and Kosher Waffle resisted the urge to complain that she was at Hebrew School. Instead, we both took pictures and fell in love with the old man who let us in. We did find the place overwhelming and were filled with pride.
Our serendipitous find of Fes was the Australian water lady. Naturally. Across from our less-than-helpful hotel was a small market where we went to buy reasonably priced water, and the store owner was a lovely woman who shared with us her favorite local restaurant. What a delicious meal! We were treated to a nice but affordable (thank you Dirham exchange rate) couscous and Moroccan soup meal. The staff was friendly, the maitre d' spoke fluent English, and the atmosphere was inviting. If you are ever in Fes, we recommend Restaurant Zagora. It gets the (very picky) HC/KW seal of approval.
The next Imperial City we experienced was Marrakech, which has the largest souk in Morocco and the busiest square in Africa. Said square is occupied with monkeys, snakes/charmers, ladies trying to henna any hand not in a pocket, and teeth. Both full sets and individual, we didn't get close enough to determine the origins or snap a picture. Otherwise, the souk looked the same as that of Fes, minus the donkeys (sad).
The Saadian Tombs are an impressive thing to see- it's a mix of history, architecture, and culture. Built in the 16th cen
tury by the ruling Saadi dynasty and rediscovered under mounds of dirt in 1917, the tombs are elaborate and ornate. Buried there are not only members of the royal family, but distinguished soldiers and even beloved servants. The tombs of Christians and Jews are distinguished by their perpendicular orientation because they do not face Mecca, unlike the Muslim tombs.
We were also lucky enough to visit the only royal palace in Morocco open to the public, the Bahia Palace. Built in the 19th century, the sprawling compound housed the grand vizier, his four wives, twenty-four concubines, many children, servants, entertainers, and visiting guests. Today, it houses random modern art exhibits and Hollywood movie crews.
Just like Fes, Marrakech has a long Jewish history. The synagogue of the city is still in use, and significantly easier to find than in Fes. We, again, fell
in love with the old Jewish man who let us in, and felt at home in the sanctuary, with its prayer books and Kleenex boxes. Also not difficult to find is the Jewish cemetery, which dates from 1537.
As we wrap up this post, we would like to tell you about another mini-Odyssey slash food find. After wandering hours in the rain, with a local girl attempting to help us and no street signs or directions, we managed to find Earth Cafe, an absolutely delicious vegetarian restaurant. The owner, Barakat Naim,
made us feel so at home- he invited us in, made us tea, fed us delicious food, and sat and talked to us, giving us directions and inviting us back for more tea. He even invited us to come visit Marrakech again, staying above the restaurant and visiting their organic farm. If you'd like to visit the cafe or even the farm, check them out here. This also receives the (very picky) KW/HC seal of approval.
So that my friends is Fes, Marrakech, donkeys, and magic carpets.
Enjoy the first intermission!
Kosher Waffle and Healthy Cookie
As
Hanukkah was just a few weeks ago, where would I spend my holiday other than the Christmas Markets of Germany? Since I had never been to the schnitzel capital of the world, now seemed like as good a time as any to make my maiden voyage!
My friend Jake ("Catholic Jew" to some of my friends, as I met him at an Orthodox synagogue in DC on 
Shabbas...yes, my life is odd) is studying at the oldest Protestant university in the world- the University of Marburg. While I had never heard of Marburg before, and according to my German friends can't even pronounce it correctly, this city holds a fascinating history. Religiously, the Marburg Castle held one of the most important Protestant discussions with Martin Luther. Architecturally, the town was ignored for centuries and managed to retain its Gothic influence long after the period ended. Culturally, Marburg is where the Brothers Grimm collected and wrote their classic tales- Rapunzel's tower is in Marburg, and the costumes of little girls in the area across the hills had red hoods. The German's are known for spreading joy!
Friday was not only a grand tour of Marburg, but an awesome chance to catch up and chat with 
a fellow expat. It's lovely to discuss how strange Europeans are, how we just want to take leftovers HOME since we PAID for them, how there's no reason to not give tap water in restaurants, and how much we miss brunch. Friday was also my introduction to German Christmas markets and Glühwein, a warm, spiced wine enjoyed by Germans as they stand out in the freezing cold at Christmas markets.
Saturday we went to Frankfurt, which was nice since I had heard of it before. We went t
o a pretty sketchy flea market in the morning, and it gave us the chance for the find of the year- cheap and delicious Indian food. Food in Belgium is very expensive and it's been declared impossible (by me) to find cheap Asian food. Five euros for huge portions of scrumptious Indian food with a cheesy Bollywood movie playing in the background? Um, I'm yours. Jake and I actually went back before my train a few days later just to get this food again. I'm pretty sure he's gonna need a frequent flier card there.
Probably more interesting than my gastronomical desires, we went to the Jewish Museum of Frankfurt as well that day. It was fascinating! It told the history of 
Frankfurt Jews through the centuries and even had a to-scale model of the old Jewish Quarter of the city. There were artifacts from Jews throughout the centuries, my favorite being the gold leafed sidurim (prayer books) from centuries ago. The one funny thing we came across in the museum was a large wheel where you could turn to your birthday and it would point to which Jewish month you were born. However, some of these month names had "W"s...and the w sound does NOT exist in Heebs. Until I realized, this is not an English transliteration of Hebrew, it's a German one. For some reason, I never learned the German spelling of the Jewish months in Hebrew School. Go figure!
The Christmas market in Frankfurt was incredible. It was HUGE, with all sorts of booths, stands, and wine. Really, you think there are a lot of beers in Germany, try the wine selection at Christmas! 
Not just the Glühwein, but honey, plum, apple, and things I didn't recognize are prime wines for the holidays. There were people everywhere, and up above on one of the old churches was an orchestra playing classical music at one point. It was really a fabulous mix of sights, sounds, tastes, smells (thank you, aforementioned schnitzel), and German.
Sunday was a very relaxing day, especially since Europe is closed on Sundays. We were able to go to a smaller town just outside of Marburg called Kirchhain, which didn't really have too much to see, but did have a Jewish Cemetary we were able to sneak into. With respect, we snuck in with respect.
Overall, it was an absolutely lovely weekend in Germany 
and it was awesome to see an old friend and a new country. Plus, I got to explore the linguistic differences and nuances of the Germanic languages, including idioms. Jake has clearly been studying and paying attention as a German student, since I learned some very useful things, including how to say "she's got a nice rack." See blog title.
Until the next adventure, auf wiedersehen!
xoxo
kw
Hello!
I have some exciting news...
I'll be staying in Belgium and at my project until the end of May! I am so excited I'm able to do this, especially since I was able to work out a great deal with my community so that staying three extra months 
won't cost me money. I'll have an even more rewarding work week, spending three out of four days split between adults and kids (right now I only see the kids Wednesdays), and possibly taking on a special one-on-one project with an adult. I can't wait for the new year where I get to take on this new schedule (still won't work Mondays, and now have Tues/Thurs mornings off!) and get to see Belgium through the spring- when it hopefully stops RAINING! I will still have time off in March to travel, plus many more long(er) weekends to go visit various places:) I still haven't figured out what I've done to deserve this...
This experience is wonderful beyond anything I could have imagined. I can undoubtedly say I'm in the best place of my life and happier than ever. I am so at peace with myself and comfortable in my own skin, I just love what I get to do every day and feel so wonderful about life.
Even more than that, I'd say this experience has given me a chance to make my relationships with people 
better. I feel like I have truly healthy, fulfilling relationships with the people in my life, and it's such a beautiful blessing. I don't know what it is about being away, but maybe it's because I can view all of my relationships on the same level (I don't see certain people more, there are no friendships based on convenience or proximity, and talking to someone in Hondurus is the same as talking to someone in NYC), that I've really been able to focus on the true friends and leave any negative influences aside.
I've been connecting and reconnecting with the most wonderful people, and my friends back home have continued to not only keep in touch, but be incredibly supportive (you know who you are,
post love in the comments below so I know you know!! ). I've become closer with my fellow expats and European friends, mostly people I hadn't seen in years but with whom am now sharing life experiences and forming really great relationships. I'm meeting extraordinary characters on my journey, other volunteers and seemingly random friends of friends...my life is like one big nest of beautiful connections.
And, as always, my family and I are as tight-knit as ever, and their continued support and "I'm so proud of you"s keep me feeling positive about myself and what I'm doing here.
Additionally, as much as I often joke about how the entire network of Jewish mothers international knows way too much about me because of my Mom, I have to say that all of her friends/family who have shown me support have also made me feel really great. Thank you very much for your love, encouragement, and support, even if I don't know you too well or have taken you for granted.
So I'll be in Europe till the end of May, home June, July, and August (with stops in DC, NYC, and Chicago, naturally), and back in Europe for grad school in the fall!
Kiss me goodbye, I'm defying gravity:)
xoxo
kw
I was awake at 7:30am the Sunday I was in Spain. No, I was not getting myself all dolled up for 
church, I was getting myself ready for bed. Spanish time runs as such: the morning begins around 11 or so and goes until lunch, at 2:30. The afternoon begins, not after noon, but at 3:30 when lunch is done. A siesta might take place (just half hour naps? Not how I roll). Dinner will be served around 8, 9, or 10...depending when you can get around to it. Leisurely enjoy the time after dinner with friends, go out after midnight, and return after 6am, when the discotheques close. For anyone who knows me, this is my normal schedule only if you push every back by about 4 hours. But, when in Rome, stay out til 7am...and have the time of your life doing it!
After a *very* full day of sightseeing, I went to my friend's friend's apartment where there was a celebration and a very serious football watching party. You think you can't get a guy to pay 
attention during an American football game? Try that on Spanish boys watching a Barca game. I could have done backflips naked while singing "King of Spain" and they wouldn't have blinked an Iberian eye. It was definitely a cultural experience, and I even explained soccer to someone else! Wahoo, earned my Catalan (street) cred.
When the game was over and meat in various forms was eaten by all but me, we headed downtown to a discotheque. At 2am. I have to say, this was a crazy fun club. Everyone kept warning me "this is a...different type disco...it's just cause the birthday boy wanted to go here, it's not the norm!" Um, I think it SHOULD be the norm. I was cracking up at the songs they played at this rock-themed venue. Everything from Cher to Nirvana to the Beach Boys to an Offspring song I haven't heard since Freshman year (nah nah why don't you get a job!) to the Rocky Horror Picture Show. It was unlike any mix of songs I had ever heard, and its unpredictability and randomness made me smile and I danced the nigh- er, early morning away.
Sunday early afternoon we got back to sightseeing. Montjuïc is the other main mountain of 
Barcelona, and it's such a beautiful place from which to view the city! Plus there is the Palau Nacional (National Palace), which houses the national museum, the Olympic Ring, where most of the facilities built for the 1992 Olympics stand, and a CASTLE, for which I am a complete sucker. The castle is quite significant to the area, as it was a fortification for the city in the 17th and 18th centuries, held prisoners until the time of Franco, and was the site of the Catalan national leader's execution by the Franco government during the Spanish Civil War.
Also, while we were at the castle there was some sort of Latin American dancing competition going on...I don't know, I just took pictures/video...
Sunday was a calm evening on the pier, where I saw both Christopher Columbus and Ben & Jerry. Very authentic Catalan.
(Free Cherry Garcia on Nov 24 to anyone with the last name "Garcia"...which is pretty common in Catalonia!)
Monday I was fortunate to see a real Barcelona gem- the Catalan Music Palace. Built between 1905 and 1908 by a contemporary of Gaudi, this palace is an unbelievable building. The architecture, the interior design, the rich symbolism and beautiful decor...it's unbelievable. You're not allowed to take pictures inside, but someone else did so here ya go:
Really, if you're ever in the area this building is a MUST see. There's a focus on world music, not just Spanish, and the muses sculpted on the wall come from all different cultures and legends, and the hall receives acts of various kinds of music from all over the world.
Speaking of Gaudi, here is his house and another he designed:
My last stop before having to leave this lovely city was the beach. While too cold to swim, it was peaceful and invigorating to walk along the coast on a sunny day, knowing all too well I was soon headed back to the land of precipitation and grayness.
And thus ends my Barcelona travel log of 2009. Hopefully I'll get to visit in the new year, when it's warm enough to enjoy the beach fully while escaping a rainy Belgian spring. And if there's a game on, no one will notice if I skinny dip!
xoxo
kw
We did not venture to Africa on our own, but went on an organized tour through MundiMaroc. Unfortunately this company failed in providing a great tour. However, going with an organized tour allowed us to travel with some fabulous tour mates- a young and charming woman from Costa Rica, an enthusiastic Australian father-son duo, and a dear old Spanish couple who didn't speak any English and spoke to us only in their native tongue. We had a wonderful time with these co-travelers and now have people to visit in
even more exotic countries!
saw just as many donkeys as we did tractors, just as many women in burkas as men in suits, and horse-drawn carts followed by semis. When most people think of Morocco, they think of an expansive, sandy desert, but what we saw were lush green hills, endless orchards of oranges, watermelons, clementines, olives, and strawberries, and countless farming towns. Even just stepping into a bakery in Morocco, you can see the cross of influence- French pastries next to Berber (nomadic Arabs) pitas.
travel wipes and Purell, and street signs. We also know how to say "we do not eat animals " in Spanish and Arabic, although it doesn't always mean much to the people serving us food. HC has mastered the art of negotiating cab fare (don't mess with the Cookie on that one), and KW can find the cheapest bottled water in any Moroccan city. Together, we have entertained ourselves for 10 days. We hope we've entertained you, too!
